Products Frequently asked Questions

What is the difference between the Primed and Plus paint finishes? Primed is a black water-based primer coating for transportation purposes only and will therefore require overpainting on site prior to installation. Plus is a black semi-gloss finish and is ready to be installed straight away on site, with no requirement for additional overpainting.
Can I install cast iron if I live in a coastal area? If you live within 5 miles of the sea, due to the harsh elements and conditions this brings, we would highly recommend for the system to be protected and over-painted with a non-ferrous paint (protective zinc coating preferably) which will significantly slow down the rate of corrosion.
Why choose cast iron over plastic or aluminium? Cast iron has a high resistance to impact, is fire-resistant and has a lifespan of well over 50 years if the system is properly maintained and looked after. It has a much more authentic look for buildings, especially traditional and listed buildings.
Do I need any special bracketry? Yes, our classical rainwater gutters and downpipes do require bracketry from our range, which are designed specifically to take the weight load of our system, to help fix and secure the system into place for a sound installation. Our recommendation is for two brackets per 1.83mtr length of gutter (maximum spacing of 900mm apart).
What lengths do the gutters and downpipes come in? All of our gutters and downpipes come in 1.83mtr lengths. We do also offer pipe barrels (plain ended pipe) where these come in 1.75mtr lengths.
Are our cast iron gutters and downpipes environmentally friendly? The majority of our pipes and fittings are made in Europe. Pam Building’s fittings are made in Telford, in the West Midlands, and most pipes are made in France. Both foundries use 99% scrap steel to make their cast iron drainage products. Using scrap helps align with the circular economy by recycling waste rather than having to use virgin raw materials. In the UK the scrap used includes a combination of pre-consumer scrap and post-consumer scrap. In France just post-consumer scrap is used. The UK business has recently begun trialing the use of used car brake discs as a form of scrap that can be melted and turned into new products. This means that the fittings you are buying may well have had a previous life as a brake disc. After about 70 years, when the drainage system is at the end of its life, it is inevitable that it will be recycled again to become yet another product. The intrinsic value in a metal such as cast iron means that someone will always benefit financially from recycling it.

Both Pam Building UK and Pam Building France have produced roadmaps to enable them to achieve net zero Scope 1 and 2 carbon emissions by 2030. The UK foundry has an electric furnace and already uses 100% renewable electricity. This means the foundry already has comparatively low carbon emissions. The remaining carbon emissions associated with the UK foundry will be tackled year on year through investment in new equipment and the continuous reduction in the resources and energy required to manufacture cast iron drainage systems.
Do your products conform to a standard? Yes, our Classical Rainwater products conform to BS 460 and our Timesaver Soil products conform to BS 416.
What are cast iron spacer plates for? The spacer plates are available to suit eared circular downpipes. The spacer plates are used to position the pipe away from the wall to accommodate uneven wall surfaces and can assist in painting after installation. The spacer plates will equal the life expectancy of the system.
Are the downpipes socket and spigot? Yes, the downpipes are all socket and spigot connections. This means that no mechanical couplings are required at all. You can simply push in your connecting pipe/fitting into the socket end of the adjoining pipe/fitting. We do also offer loose sockets (eared & un-eared) as an accessory in the range.
What comes with the diverter kit and how do I install it? With our diverter kits, you get the following products:
  • tank connector
  • nozzle
  • collector
  • triangle spacer
  • collector pipe
  • an eared socket (A586)
Firstly, you simply need to determine the size and capacity water butt to be used. You then fix the socket into the downpipe with the outlet at a similar level to the inlet of the water butt and allow for a slight fall. When installed, the collector should be no higher than the top of the water butt, so that when the water butt is full, the water will flow back down the rainwater pipe. Secure the socket back to the wall using 8mm x 75mm coach screws and wall plugs. Drop the triangular spacer on top of the collector to prevent the pipe above from slipping down. Insert the rainwater pipe from above and fix back to the wall.
How do I join my gutters together? If you are using the half round profile, then we offer gutter joining kits in all diameters except for 150mm. For the 150mm half round profile, and all of the other profiles, we recommend that a bitumen gutter sealant or a low modulus mastic sealant is used, along with union clips to join the guttering together. You will also require 6mm x 25mm long setscrews and nuts to secure the system together.
What screws do I need to secure my fascia brackets to the fascia board of my property? You will require round headed woodscrews at 5mm x 25mm long.
Are your gutters and fittings pre-drilled? Yes, our gutters and fittings are already pre-drilled with a 8mm hole size. This hole size is then perfect for a M6 x 25mm round/pan headed set screw to secure the two lengths of gutter together.
How can I cut my gutters and what with? Gutters can be cut using a hacksaw, but the blade requires to be tungsten tipped with 50 teeth per inch.
How do I drill my gutters? The hole size requirements are 8mm and should be positioned centrally 20mm from the spigot of the gutter. A powered saw or disc cutter can also be used. Please do strictly follow the necessary safety precautions recommended by the tool manufacturer.
How do I use the gutter jointing kit for the half round gutters? Push the screw through the spigot of the gutter or fixing, and then through the hole in the gasket strip. The hole in the gasket is a tight fit and will locate on the screw while the joint is being made. Locate the screw, seal and spigot of the gutter/fitting into the socket of the gutter and fix a square nut to the end of the screw. Ensure the seal is sitting square in the socket and tighten the nut on the screw. Trim the excess rubber at the end of the joint with a sharp bladed knife.
What screws do I require for the downpipes to secure them into place? If you are using eared pipe without a spacer plate, then a 8mm x 50mm long (min.) non corrosive fixing should be used. If you are using a spacer plate, if the wall is uneven, then we would recommend a 8mm x 75mm (min.) long non corrosive fixing.
How do you get the projection offset measurement? The measurement is taken from centre to centre of the pipes on a projection offset.
How can I help maintain my system gutters and downpipes? Annualy check and clear your gutter system and rainwater heads of any leaves and debris that could cause a potential blockage. You may require more regular checks if you are in close proximity of trees etc. Also inspect the condition of the paintwork at the same time, sometimes you may need to wipe clean any film build up, to protect the surface finish. Also check to make sure all fixings are secure and in good condition.
How do I prepare and overpaint my system if I bought primed products? When preparing the system, inspect the products, wire brush and touch up the factory applied primer coating (if required) with a metal primer where necessary. Once the system has been cleaned and is dust free apply an undercoat (usually 2 coats) before finishing the product with a top coat to suit the building décor.

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